Visiting Orvieto means letting yourself be won over by a town that holds centuries of history, art and culture in the heart of Umbria. As you wander the lanes of the historic centre, admire the magnificent Duomo and explore the wonders of the underground, it’s impossible not to stumble upon another of the area’s great treasures: its food.
Orvietan cooking tells the town’s story through recipes handed down over time, honest ingredients and flavours that are bold yet balanced. The hills around Orvieto yield outstanding produce that has always been the backbone of the local table, while the town’s strategic position has, over the centuries, brought together different culinary influences that still meet on the plate today.
So what should you eat in Orvieto? Here are six specialities that will have your mouth watering at the mere mention of them.
Baffo all’orvietana
Among the most distinctive antipasti of the local tradition is baffo all’orvietana. Baffo is guanciale — the cured meat from the pig’s cheek — cut into strips and cooked with sage and vinegar. It was once a tasty alternative to prime cuts, prized for how nourishing it was. It’s best enjoyed with toasted Umbrian bread, the saltless kind, perfect for mopping up the juices without overpowering their flavour. It’s one of those dishes that speak to the homely soul of Orvietan cooking: a few ingredients, treated with respect, and the result is right there.
Umbrichelli
Umbrichelli are the first course that stands for Orvieto itself. They’re made by hand with nothing but water and flour. The name comes from the Perugian dialect word umbrico, meaning “earthworm”, after their long, rounded shape. The origins of this pasta lie deep in Umbria’s rural traditions, when the simplicity of the ingredients was a necessity that turned into culinary excellence. They pair beautifully with all sorts of sauces, from a plain tomato sauce to wild boar ragù. The pasta’s hearty texture holds the sauce perfectly.
Piccione alla leccarda
Among the main courses, piccione alla leccarda (roast pigeon) stands out — a recipe that is one of the most authentic expressions of Orvietan cooking. Long considered a dish for special occasions, it’s cooked slowly to keep the meat tender. The word leccarda refers to the pan set beneath the spit, where the juices and fat drip down and are then used to make a rich, savoury base that accompanies the pigeon and brings out its flavour. In the old trattorie it’s still cooked to family recipes passed down from one generation to the next.
Gallina ‘mbriaca
Another local dish that won’t disappoint even the most demanding palates is gallina ‘mbriaca — “drunken hen”. The name says it all: the hen is literally drowned in red wine, first in a long marinade and then during slow cooking. The wine blends with the other ingredients into a rich, flavourful sauce that lifts the taste of the meat. The recipe is closely tied to the rural character of the land. In a world based almost entirely on farming and often marked by hardship, communities learned to make the most of every resource the land had to offer.
Cinghiale in umido
Cinghiale in umido — braised wild boar — is one of the cornerstones of Orvietan, and Umbrian, cooking. The woods around the rupe, the tufa cliff the town sits on, ensure a steady presence of wild boar in the area, and local cooks have long made the most of it in this braised version. After a long marinade, the meat is cooked slowly with red wine, tomato, herbs and spices until it turns tender and deeply flavoured. The slow process lets everything meld together, giving a dish full of character and rooted in the land.
Baccalà all’orvietana
Despite being far from the sea, baccalà (salt cod) holds an important place in the local tradition. Typical of the Christmas season but found on the tables of the old trattorie all year round, it bears fine witness to the old trade links between inland Umbria and the coast. The recipe calls for cooking with tomato, olives, aromatics and extra virgin olive oil — ingredients that enhance its flavour without masking its delicacy. The result is a balanced, full-flavoured dish that can surprise anyone who associates Orvietan cooking only with meat and game.
Where to Stay in Orvieto, Just Steps from the Trattorie
The best part of tasting Orvieto is that you never have to go far to do it. The Hotel Posta sits in the heart of the historic centre, inside Palazzo Guidoni, a sixteenth-century palazzo just a few minutes’ walk from the trattorie where these dishes are still cooked to family recipes. You dine at your own pace, walk home through the lanes, and the next morning the town is already right outside the door — starting with the Duomo and on from there.
If you’re looking for a place to set out from each day, our rooms are right upstairs, in the quiet of the palazzo. And to plan your visit: what to see in Orvieto in a week end.